The Tao of Timó

Fine ingredients all, but equally integral is the stellar execution by Andriola's kitchen crew. A leg of confit duck and fanned slices of succulent breast were cooked just right, as was an apt accompaniment of braised napa cabbage with borlotti beans and Italian sausage. Same goes for a juicy square of yellowtail snapper wrapped in spinach, dappled with ripe tomatoes, and surrounded by tender littleneck clams.

Side dishes are compelling enough to make a meal by themselves — an especially viable option for vegetarians, who could pair wild mushroom and truffle risotto with roasted beets and goat cheese; or with warmed mushrooms and artichokes; or braised endive with balsamic and Parmesan (which proved a bit too tangy for our table's tastes).

Prices have remained a little less steadfast than everything else but are still reasonable: appetizers $9 to $17, pastas around $20, 11 of 13 main courses under $30. And Timó touts a distinctive wine list, although admittedly I base this judgment on it being composed mostly of labels I've never heard of. Seriously, it's a distinguished list, including about two dozen dessert wines by the glass.

There are a dozen smartly chosen cheeses to match with the wines, but if it's sweets you desire, desserts deliver the goods as well — although I am not nearly as enthusiastic about current choices as before (my wife still talks about the long-gone coffee granita of many, many condos ago). Maybe it's a matter of too much fruit, what with mango tarte tatin, apple strudel, pineapple cobbler, berries with zabaglione.... Having said that, I admit even mundane molten chocolate cake is plated with artistry — and also with caramelized banana ice cream and dulce de leche. Champagne crème brûlée tasted pretty much the same as any other crème brûlée, even if sided by "braised" blueberries; the topping should have been more darkly caramelized to create a bitter foil for the sweet custard. None impressed as much as an exemplary white chocolate soufflé with creamy Chambord sauce poured into the poked center. Unlike soufflés, which can reach glorious heights only to fall, Timó consistently rises to the occasion.